Starting Electrical

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OK, so last week I had nothing!  But things are getting back to somewhat normal around the house and this weekend Brandi helped me install 4 bolts that were impossible to do alone, it was funny to see her crammed in this little car reaching and flexing to help hold the bolt in place,  now she knows why my back hurts from time to time!  I also got the brakes and spacers installed, the spacers are a bit large and I'll either cut them down or buy smaller ones later.  On to electrical!

"Big" brakes, small wheel = the calipers and disk needs to be located inboard of the wheel to fit.  It's a bit hard on bearings but now I have the big roller bearings and larger CV stub shaft so I'm not worried about it.  There are only a few hundred pounds per corner on this 1967 pop can.

Started electrical.

Wires are tucked, the bundle upper left are original mini and will be tucked later.

Now the mess is inside.

Just a fun picture.

Picking off little things.

NEW?  CLICK HERE FOR DAY ONE!

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Click here for a 3 minute video of the entire build.

So for the last few months I couldn't find the special shouldered bolts that attach the center axle bearing housing to the engine, that thing has just been hanging out until now.  I found the bolts while looking for other things, so that is now attached for good.
Also I deemed it time to install the radiator for good, that thing looks nice!  I had pulled it out to protect it until now.
I also secured some of the brake lines to the car a little better, and cut/installed the heater hoses.  There also is this little breather box on the back of the engine that needed a new O-ring, I put that back together too.
I'm installing the shift linkage, that thing was perfect but for some reason, it is hitting things.  I'll have to beat on it a bit.  Another thing I did was to order some bolts that will be used as wheel studs through my brake disk, drive flange and wheel spacer stack up.  Then on go the wheels!

Radiator in for good (I'll put the cardboard back on).  I still may pull it out this winter so I can paint the slam panel.  You can see this picture was shot before I finished putting on the rubber guard.

Here are two heater hoses finally plumbed, I had to buy an adapter to go from one hose size to another.  Ugly clamps are in place but this winter I have plans to put some sort of shrink clamp thing that will be much cleaner.  Now that I'm looking at this photo, I see the old brake line mount (bracket with hole near top center) that should probably go away or???

Brakes

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Got the brakes done.  It took forever, but I got the master cylinder remote reservoirs mounted and plumbed.  I filled the clutch one up and bled the system, BOOM that worked perfect.  Next was the brake system,  leaks all over!  Fortunately the leaks were just a few connections that were only finger tight.  A quick turn of the wrench and everything holds pressure.  I stood on the brake pedal for a while and inspected all the fittings and they are dry.  Check that off the list!
I also had to figure out a way to pump up the hydrolastic system.  I took a fire extinguisher and put my hydrolastic fluid (50% antifreeze/water mix) hit it with the air compressor and attached an air hose on the end.  The hydrolastic system uses a Schrader valve, so it was easy to pump up.  That worked slick!  Now the system is pumped up to 120 psi and most of the volume is filled, all I have to do now is increase the pressure using a grease gun filled with antifreeze.  I took a chrome tire cap, tapped it, and screwed a zirk in to it.  So what you do is screw the cap/zirk onto the Schrader valve, attach the grease gun and pump away.  This car is cool, just pump it up till you like the stance.
I also made some rebound stops and mounted those so the suspension won't droop too far and hit the tie-rods on the sub-frame (no picture).

Master cylinders plumbed, carpet to come later.

My hydrolastic pressurizer made from a fire extinguisher and grease gun.

It's the little things yah know?

NEW?  CLICK HERE FOR DAY ONE!

---UPDATES ARE ON MONDAYS---

Click here for a 3 minute video of the entire build.

So another week has past, I got some small things done but at this stage it's pretty much all small things until I attack the wiring.

I'm pointing to a section of the frame that hits the CV joint boot clip I'm grinding down.

Axle reinstalled and now it clears.

Another small clearance issue to deal with, the O2 sensor is clocked too high on the header so it hits the oil pan flange.  I ground away some of the flange (welded washers together) and made a spacer to move the exhaust down a bit.

Here is a shot of several different tubes all secured yet insulated from each other with zip ties.  O2 sensor on the left.

In this shot you can see how this engine "fits" in the car.  Technically it doesn't so you have to cut some areas like this notch for a sensor.

Here is Fynn, he is 2 years old and is the sole operator of his own shop.

Very quick turn around!

Even Mia is into cars, she loved this Band-Aid I drew for her.

Hydraulic lines are done!

NEW?  CLICK HERE FOR DAY ONE!

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 I finished the hydraulic lines and now I can move on to wrapping up loose ends like hoses and mounting the intake before I start the electrical work.  I also picked up a old school tach from the 80's with a discreet shift light from Mallory.

All hydraulic lines are done!

The brake proportioning valve is mounted and plumbed.

Another shot of brake and clutch lines.

I found this tach on Ebay and snagged it cheap. 

Fixing the plate compactor, rental crap...

The boss.

A happy wife is a happy life!

Dog Days of Summer

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Even though I had all weekend to work on the car, I didn't get much done.  I guess that happens some times, right?  Tell me yes...

Driver's side front brake line complete.

Brake line installed.

Rear brake line started, here it's running from the "T" to the brake proportioning valve.  I am going to redo this line and route it behind the hydro line.

Chipping Away

NEW?  CLICK HERE FOR DAY ONE!

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I had some time to do some small things this weekend.  The last few weeks have been filled with family outings with little time for the car project.  Gotta take advantage of the sun when it shines in the Pacific N.W.!

Finally purchased CV joint grease.

Stuffed in the Honda side of my custom axle.

An locked down the boots.

Both sides ready to go.  All the black parts are Honda, the bare steel CVs are classic Mini S parts.

Driver side (looking from front of car).

Passenger side (looking from front of car) now that's a short shaft!

Another custom part I had to build is this tube with a double flair on one end and a bubble flair on the other (both can be made with a double flair tool).

The splitter on the left will send a line to the rear brakes.  The part on the right is a stock splitter I'm using for the two front brakes and holds the brake light switch.

Hydraulics N Fuel

NEW?  CLICK HERE FOR DAY ONE!

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I made a steel hard line for my hydraulic clutch and it turned out terrible.  One little miscalculation on the first bend and that will mess up the rest of the bends.  So what I did was use some 1/8th inch solid core solder I had kicking around and bent up a perfect run.  That was easy due to the solder all  rolled up and compact as opposed to the long steel tube.  Also, it's obviously much easier to bend and get "just right."  Once I had the model done, then all I had to do is make the tube like it.  I went in the kitchen for some comfort from the heat of the garage to do my bends and I found a use for my outdated tile kitchen counter-bar-thing; I used the grid pattern to help get the tube to match the bends and angles of the sample.  After I was done with it, I put it in the engine bay and the tube fit like a factory item.  I'm very happy with that and the brake lines will be much easier due to being so short.
Next I finished the fuel line from the pump in the rear of the car below the tank to up near the fuel rail.  I looked at the different fittings that could be used and decided to go with AN fittings.  They are easy to work with and offer every fitting combo under the sun.  I was going to run the stock Civic fuel filter and cleaned one up from the junk yard but it just took up too much space (I am dealing with a mini after all) and I found an in-line filter that flows up to 130 GPH and is good for 40 microns.  That was a good find and will go anywhere.

I started with a roll of solid core solder to make the template for my steel tube hydraulic clutch line.

Mostly bent up.

Solder bent up and looking good.

Another view.

I took the solder model and made a real part out of the steal tube.

Mia couldn't believe she could bend steel like Superman so I gave her the solder to try.  She is so strong!

Steel tube in place, perfect fit first time.

Another view.

Here is the fuel filter, inline just below where the intake and fuel rail go.

I used hose clamps to secure the fuel line under the car. The other line is part of the hydrolastic system (same tubing).

Fuel pump mounted and plumbed.

One other thing I got in the mail was this fan from Spal.  It's super low profile and will move enough air to cause the jet streams to change course and blow the clouds away from Seattle.  I'll fire it up October through June...

Fuel Pump

NEW?  CLICK HERE FOR DAY ONE!

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Click here for a 3 minute video of the entire build.

This week I installed a fuel pump from MSD, it took forever to find a good place for it.  I wanted to avoid the exhaust system and I had to work with most of the existing tubing so finding the best place was limited.  I have seen many people mount the pump in the "boot" however I want mine under the car.  The good news is all the fuel lines will be located far away from the exhaust system.  One more thing checked off the list.

I also finished up the hydrolastic suspension lines and started work on the hydraulic clutch hardline.  More pictures next week.

Odds and Ends

NEW?  CLICK HERE FOR DAY ONE!

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Click here for a 3 minute video of the entire build.

Lots of pictures this post!

This week I received the electric exhaust dump I ordered from Quick Time Performance.  It's a valve in your exhaust that can be opened and closed by holding a switch one way or another. You can do a partial open or close if you wish too.  I'm thinking of plumbing the dump output back into the exhaust system after the muffler to help keep the exhaust out of the car. This car is from 1967 and is less than air tight.

 Also, I installed the rest of the header and I must say it looks cool from under the car, and I put one of the axles in place to make sure it fits.  Lastly, I made some new hydrolastic lines up front with some cleaner angles than stock and then installed two needle valves out back to control how much the suspension moves. 

This is the electric valve I bought for the exhaust.

One axle is in (without boots) and it fits perfect.

Another shot.

  I had the splines cut extra long for more play, turns out I don't need it.

One step closer.

Second half of header is in, I held off to avoid damage until now.

Another shot.

Looking under the car from the front.

Here is one new hydrolastic line with a simple "Z" bend.  The last one looked more like a "ZWSM" bend!

One needle valve per side to control fluid flow.  Some guy who used to race a mini with the "wet" suspension told me about this trick.